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Smith, Watson

"The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association"

A proofed fur fibre, on the other hand, when
examined under the microscope, is seen to be covered with a kind of
translucent glaze, which completely envelops it, and prevents the
beautiful markings showing the scaly structure of the fibre from being
seen. Finally, if we examine microscopically a proofed fibre which has
been dyed, or which we have attempted to dye, with logwood black, we
find that the fibre presents an appearance similar to that of rope which
has been drawn through some black pigment or black mud, and then dried.
It is quite plain that no lustrous appearance or good "finish" can be
expected from such material. Now how did the Continental hat
manufacturers achieve their success, both as regards dyeing either with
logwood black or with coal-tar colours, and also getting a high degree
of "finish"? They attained their object by rubbing the proofing varnish
on the inside of the hat bodies, in some cases first protecting the
outside with a gum-varnish soluble in water but resisting the
lac-varnish rubbed inside.


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